Foxtrot Chardonnay 2009 ($45) is the second vintage of Chardonnay from this Naramata Bench production that already has an iconic reputation with its Pinot Noir. Winemaker Gustav Allander made 340 cases. His fruit came from two vineyards: six-year-old vines (three clones) at the Coolshanagh Vineyard north of Naramata; and 36-year-old organic vines at the Pisicoli Vineyard at Westbank. Both vineyards have rocky, gravelly soils.
There are two words for this wine: elegance and power! It begins with citrus aromas and a hint of spice. The winery suggests hazelnut toast and I won’t argue with that. I expect that reflects the fine French oak – Tronçais and Alliers, 75% new – in the wine was fermented. The oak flavours add subtle complexity to the buttery citrus flavours and minerality of the wine. There is a lovely taste of cloves on the lingering finish. As delicious as this wine is already, it really should be laid down for a couple of years, as one would with a good Burgundy. It will develop even more richness and complexity. 92 Points – John Schreiner